The winter ski season at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Teton Village runs from the first Saturday in December to the first Sunday in April regardless of snow conditions.
Yellowstone National Park is closed to all motorized vehicles from late October to mid-December, and again from mid-March to early May. Snowmobile and snowcoach access is permitted in the park from mid-December to mid-March weather permitted.
So.....
WHAT'S TO DO IN THE OFF-SEASON?
It's true, there is no off-season in Jackson Hole if you are adventurous, creative, love good food, good hiking and good shopping. Here are a few suggestions:
TRIPS TO THE PARKS
While the national parks don't officially open until the first week of May, many sections are accessible if you know how to find them. The West Gate of Yellowstone is open and may be approached by a beautiful drive up the "other side" of the Tetons, over Teton Pass into Victor, then north on route 33, following the map to West Yellowstone. From there, the road is open to Mammoth Hot Springs as well as south to Old Faithful and the famous paint pots. There is almost no traffic in the park and animals roam abundantly and freely.
Grand Teton National Park is open north of Moran Junction with views of Jackson Lake. The main highway leading north from Jackson enters the park beyond the National Elk Refuge and the careful observer will see elk, buffalo, moose and antelope in the flats and hills along the road. Animals move through the night, so dusk and early morning are best for viewing. It is also well to note the very real danger of large animals on the road. The views of the Tetons on this road are spectacular and ever-changing with the light and shifts in road direction.
The Visitors Center at the Moose entrance to Grand Teton National Park is open and manned by a park ranger staff. It is a complete storehouse of books, tapes, maps and presentations, all manner of information. There are several ranger programs and lectures available, for example, a unique early morning walk to watch the colorful strutting grouse mating ritual.
SIDE TRIPS
Many roads lead out of Jackson and provide scenic rides to interesting places and activities.
Togwotee Pass - The main road north (Hwy. 26) turns off at Moran Junction and heads toward Dubois, Wyoming. It climbs through high country into the winter snow fields with the Wind River Range to the south and the palisade-like cliffs of the Absarokas to the north. The open-range fields offer some of the best snowmobiling in the country. Lunch at the venerable Cowboy Village at Togwotee lodge is a pleasant treat.
If you'd like to travel over the back country at the speed of dog, Geyser Creek Adventures in Dubois offers dog-sledding treks throughout May. Because this company operates in the high country, they are also able to offer snowmobiling trips after most of the Jackson companies have closed for the season. They'll pick you up in Jackson and take you over Togwotee Pass. You'll save money though if you're willing to explore and drive yourself.
Kelly/Slide Lake area - Heading north out of town, take a right at Gros Ventre Junction and follow the road past Kelly, a funky town once destroyed in the flood following the Gros Ventre slide. The road turns right again following the Gros Ventre River to Slide Lake, formed in 1927 by the massive earthquake which caused a landslide that blocked the river. This road continues for miles past red hills and high cattle ranges. The trip back affords spectacular views of the top of the Tetons, views scholars believe are the same as white man's first glimpse of Jackson's mountains long ago.
If you're interested, stop at Kelly Warm Springs, the pond you'll see to your right after turning on the forest service access road. This is a natural warm spring. If you're brave, stick your toes in the water. Local children swim here long before the swimming pools open for the summer. Look for the many exotic species of fish that live in this pond. It's fun to take a jar and net along and catch some for close inspection.
Jackson Hole has been used as a ser for many movies over the years. Any Which Way But Loose, starring Clint Eastwood, was filmed on the town square. Much of the classic movie Shane was filmed at a cabin near Kelly. The Shane cabin is approximately a mile and a half past Kelly Warm Springs on the left-hand side of the road. In springtime or autumn, the ground around the cabin may be covered with snow. However, the cabin is only 75 yards off the road and you should be able to walk to it if you wear boots or something to keep your feet dry.
Teton Pass/Victor - The drive over Teton Pass is a 10% grade with excellent views of the valley. On the other side in Idaho, you can be rewarded by a famous huckleberry shake at the Victor Emporium or dinner at the Knotty Pine, a fine restaurant.
To visit the Grand Targhee Ski area, proceed north from Victor to Driggs. Turn right in Driggs and follow the sings. The road switches back through forest-service land until you end up in Wyoming again!
If you're in the area between mid-April and late October, don't miss the chance to see a first-run movie at the historic Spud Drive-In, located on the right side of the highway between Victor and Driggs. Come prepared to watch the movie on Thursday, Friday or Saturday and eat theater fare fifties style, complete with tatter tots and fry sauce. To find out what's playing dial 1-800-799-SPUD.
Hoback River - Head south out of town on highway 89 to Hoback Junction, turn left up the canyon following the historic river to it's source in the high country. continue on through the high-mountain valley of Bondurant to the cattle-country community of Pinedale, keeping an eye out for sandhill cranes and pronghorn antelope. Grab a bite for lunch at any of the colorful cafes in Pinedale. Or stop at the Camp Creek Inn just a few miles south of Hoback Junction, lunch or dinner in a real western atmosphere, but bring a real western appetite.
Alpine Junction - Heading south then west out of Hoback Junction, the road follows the Snake River Canyon to Alpine Junction. Watch closely for bald eagles and osprey along this beautiful road. At Alpine Junction you have several choices:
You can make a circle by continuing along the Palisades Reservoir, a scenic lake that runs for 15 miles along highway 26. Turn right in Swan Valley and follow Pine Creek Pass to Victor, then proceed home and enjoy the dramatic scenery over Teton Pass.
Turn south toward Alpine and proceed through Star Valley. This long string of small dairy towns was homesteaded by Mormons in the late 1800's. The area is long-thought to be one of the last hideouts of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid while they ran their horse-thieving operation out of Wyoming, Idaho and Montana. On the left side of the road, past the small community of Thayne, visit the Star Valley Cheese Factory. In the store, you'll be able to sample different flavors of cheeses. If you'd like to see the cheese-making process, watch the factory in motion from their viewing room. Tuesdays or Fridays are best because the stations are fully staffed on those days. Before you leave, enjoy a cheeseburger and a fountain malt or shake, inexpensive and made from fresh factory dairy products.
One guest ranch in Star Valley, the Tincup Mountain Guest Ranch, offers horseback riding anytime of the year you desire. That means riding in the late fall, in the deep snow during winter, or through the slush during springtime. The cowboys at the ranch all have other day jobs, so call early to schedule your ride. They'll pick you up at your condo in Jackson and drive you to the ranch. Again, you'll save money if you're willing to go on the trek yourself.
HANGING OUT IN JACKSON
Jackson is a great place to just get away. It's fun to sit by the fire, play cards, contemplate, or read a book. If you don't like the reading selection provided in your condo, the Valley Bookstore in Jackson offers something for everyone. Or, a walk over to the Teton Sports Club (you have a membership you know) will reveal all sorts of activities from weight lifting and racquetball to the sauna and jacuzzi.
Many of the best stores are open and eager to do business. This is a great time for bargains, sale signs abound. Ditto for many of the best restaurants. Eating out is always a treat and there are a variety of places to go. Look for special discount or two-for-one coupons in the local paper.
The Teton County Historical Society and museum is an interesting place to visit and learn the history of Jackson's Hole. The Teton County Public Library, on Virginian Land, is another valuable source of information .
There are also several movie theaters and numerous sources of videotapes (your unit has a video player). For a splash of local color, watch for the many homegrown productions, both amateur and professional, or attend lectures by old timers of Jackson.
Fishing can be very very good in the off season. Catch the Snake before the Spring runoff and you could land some nice native cutthroat trout. Check your fishing regulations to determine which streams are open to fishing. Fishing Guides are also available to float you down the Snake.
Check out the art galleries. Jackson abounds in good are of all kinds. Most of the galleries stay open year round, displaying the work of America's best painters and sculptors. One exciting addition is the National Museum of Wildlife Art located one mile north of Jackson on highway 89. It is the first nationally based museum to focus, in it's permanent collections, on fine are with wildlife as the main subject. Perhaps the singular treasure here is the country's largest and most comprehensive assemblage of work by "the old master" of North American wildlife art, Carl Rungius. Additional highlights include Charlie Russell's To the Victor Belongs the Spoils, uniquely large and one of the few wildlife paintings by the noted cowboy artist.
The above list represents a few possibilities that make a visit to Jackson memorable. It might help stimulate your own thinking about places to go and things to do during the off-season.
Pleasant journeys.
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